How to Level a Nail Plate with a Rubber Base – Step by Step
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Hello, ladies!
In nail salons, the most popular service in recent years has been nail extension using a rubber base.
If you learn how to do this, you’ll really come to love the rubber base, and your clients will love you.
To make things easier for you, I’ve put everything together in 15 specific steps, which I’ve described below.
First, I'll explain what "base adjustment" means.
The term “leveling” is the most commonly used, but in fact we don’t make the nail flat; instead, we give it a slight curve. The reason for this is that the natural shape of the nail, when viewed from the side, is curved, not flat. So “leveling” means using the base coat as a tool to create the correct nail architecture. It’s also called sculpting, strengthening, and so on. This curve protects the nail from breaking; it makes it stronger and more beautiful.
Some nails are naturally flat, while others grow upward and have an inverted curve. These are quite troublesome for both the nail owners and manicurists because they break frequently, and the material (gel or gel polish) easily peels off them. This is where the base coat comes in. If you create the right structure and raise the apex, you can conceal this upward growth and say goodbye to broken nails.
What is an apex?
When you look at the nail from the side, the apex is the highest point on the nail line.
Where should the apex be placed?
The highest point should be created with the base in the middle of the nail bed (look at the nail and mentally remove its free edge). Imagine that the length of the nail has been reduced as much as possible to the base, and divide it in half. That is exactly where the highest point should be. This high point will strengthen the nail and give it a beautiful shine.
In the past, we could only achieve this apex with gel or acrylic—hard materials.
But today, we can do it with a rubber base as well! It’s soft and flexible, which is why it’s called a rubber base. Thanks to its flexibility, it protects the nails from impact—instead of breaking, the nail bends. The softness absorbs the impact.
We start by smoothing out the nail plate
You must start with a thin layer of clear base coat!
You can use either a clear or colored base coat for the leveling step.
You can choose from the following options:
Colorless rubber base
Clear laminating base
Colored rubber base
Colored laminating base
Color bases are also called cover bases.
Here are the steps:
Shape your nails
Remove the cuticles
Use a buffing file to gently buff the entire surface of the nail
Take the large Nail Fresher, a degreaser that removes oil and moisture from the nails. Soak a lint-free pad in it and thoroughly clean the nail.
Next, apply a small amount of Nail Fresher to thoroughly remove moisture from the top layer of the nail
When applying Ultrabond, it's important to apply it in a very thin layer, being careful not to touch the cuticles. It acts as a double-sided adhesive between the nail and the base coat.
Colorless rubber base coat – apply it with a squeezed brush using firm, rubbing motions in a very thin layer, then cure it in a combined UV/LED lamp for 30 seconds. The base coat is the most important step because it acts as the bond between the natural nail and the next product—gel, colored base coat, or colored gel polish.
Sculpting with base coat—the first thing you need to do is apply a thin layer, just like nail polish. The wet base makes it easy to spread a larger amount of the base coat. Next, without curing, dip the brush into the base coat again and place a drop in the center of the nail near the cuticles. Gently push the drop upward without touching the cuticles, then use the brush to spread it downward along the center of the nail. Next, pull it downward at one end, and then toward the other end of the nail.
Turn your hand over and wait a few seconds so that more of it collects in the center, where the apex should be
We return our hand to its normal position and pick up the thin brush (11 mm), which works wonders for the decorations. We use it to help ensure the base is distributed evenly. If a large amount of base has pooled at the free edge, we gently brush it with the brush and guide it toward where the apex should be.
To check whether the base coat is applied evenly and there are no ripples on the nail, we use a desk lamp with a bulb. If everything is fine, a circle of light from the lamp will form in the center of the nail. If the base coat isn’t applied evenly, the reflection from the lamp won’t be a perfect circle—it will split into two. Always examine the nail from all sides.
Each nail should be placed under the lamp immediately for at least 10 seconds to harden the base coat and prevent it from running. Then, continue curing for at least another minute. A thicker layer of base coat requires a longer curing time. You can then move on to the next nail.
If the base coat has hardened but has pooled in some areas and you haven’t achieved a nice shape, you can remove the sticky layer with Cleanser and shape it with a nail file. Then clean it again with a cotton swab and Nail Fresher.
Apply one or two coats of gel polish
Apply a top coat
…And you’ll have a healthy and beautiful manicure
I hope you found my article helpful, and that by following these steps, you’ll be able to create perfect manicures!